This is an archive of the Posterous blog I recorded during my cycling tour in April/May 2010. Everything was taken and posted from a Nokia phone via its email app & WAP, hence low-res!
Don't know how often it will be possible to post to this, we'll have to see.
Dad and Trevor accompanying
Here Pedestrian crossings have animated green walking man. When end of crossing time nears, man runs.
The boat took 24 hours to reach Santander from Portsmouth and docked at noon Spanish time. It pulls in right alongside the town centre so you get off immediately on to the sea front. The sun was hot so I found a nice shady bench in the town square to sit for a while. The bus to Barcelona was not due to go until 9pm so I decided to have a little explore on the bike. Followed a road up hill which began getting steeper and steeper. At this point I realised it was a one way street so I had to carry on up and up. At a certain point the road stopped but the hill went up even more steeply to some houses at the top. Next to a flight of stone steps was the surprising sight of a modern escalator. At the top of the escalator was another novelty, a kind of funicular-railway-style elevator which ran up and down the steep hillside and in constant use by people passing up and down.
After a while observing this, and foiling the efforts of an elderly spanish man to make small talk (I had no Spanish and he no English), I descended the hill by a freshly laid smooth road (whee!). By the sea there was a cycle path so I followed it to see where it led. After a while the tarmac path became a wooden slatted way across a beach. The beach looks out across a bay full of boats and a sand-bar and beautiful _huge_ hills on the other side. Further along, a peninsular is reached where there is a grassy park, and a car-less road which which goes up to a summit on which is built
la Palacio de la Magdelena. from there there is a great view surrounded by trees to the bay on one side and the Atlantic breeze blows in from the other side. Lots of people around enjoying the day.
By 8pm I located the Estación de Autobuses. Took off the bike pedals, and turned the handlebars sideways, then wrapped the whole thing in my B&Q tarpaulin (which will eventually be tent grondsheet) and a few bits of gaffer tape. No problem loading it into luggage hold of bus (I had pre booked a bicycle - 10 euros extra).
Arrived Barcelona 6.30am and still dark. Re-assembled bike in station then waited around 20 minutes for it to get light. Located hostel (
http://www.barcelonamar.com/) and deposited all luggage and bike there and then explored the town by foot. Spent most of the day paranoid about potential pickpockets after all warnings I had had. By evening very tired, chatted to people at the hostel and went to bed. There is an Australian lady here also touring by bike so we exchanged notes.
Got a good nightś sleep and its (sorry I cant work the apostrophe key) now Saturday morning and I am tempted to stay another day as there is a lot to see here, but I am going to start off the ride. North, up the coast.
Didn't get to see it yesterday, so have called at the Sagrada Familia today. I'm calling this the official start. Here goes!
Out of Barcelona a long, flat busy road leads up the coast for about 60km. Camped just before Blanes (camping La Tordera, expensive (€15) and not that great but right on beach). Them the N11 bears off in land and staying on the coast road you are in for a real treat, from Lloret de Mar to Sant Feliu de Guixols. Winding, up and down cliff road with amazing views and not that busy at all. Lots of cyclists and motorbikers out today enjoying the Sunday sun. Descending to Sant Feliu found a lovely little quiet town with a cute beach and promenade so stopped for a paddle. Had intended to push on further and did so but over the first hill was into a horrible busy area full of Nike outlets etc. so turrned around and back to the nice place. Called at the Camping Sant Pol (Lene: highly recommended, it`s just after Sant Feliu) which is one of the best camp sites I have ever stayed at. Plus a discount for people arriving by bike! Winner. It is in the town but you would hardly know it. Grassy with trees and even little wild flowers in the grass. Dead quiet tonight though. After setting up camp went for a walk to the beach and along the headland. Clouds have come in and may be a chance of rain tomorrow.
Wet most of day but dry for now. Got cold and had low point but put Paramo trousers on legs and Melvyn Bragg on ipod and spirits perked. Have set up at a campsite (at Castelló nr Figueres) almost exclusively full of german and dutch caravanners. Feel strangely at home.
Staying this evening at Leucate, interesting location between the sea and an étang (which translates as pond but is more of a coastal lagoon) one of many along this coast
This morning a German man gave me 2 "special" bananas which he said he brought from the Canary Islands and he promises will taste especially good
Canal towpath runs 20km between two étangs from Port-la-Nouvelle to Narbonne. Am in the town centre now. Was sitting eating some lunch when a man asked me for a "Kleenex". I gave him one of my freshly purchased stash of toilet rolls (as required when visiting French campsites; so he was in luck) and he proceeded to wipe his dog's bottom.
Camping "Les Floralys", Narbonne
Having seen sufficient out-of-season beach resorts, continued inland and skirted around north of Béziers to Pézenas ("the town of Molière"), via back roads and villages (Capestang, Cazedarnes, Magalas). Many, many vineyards. Hot day; sunburnt hands.
Set out early this morning after camping out "rough" just off road in area just north of La Vaquerie. Was lovely and quiet with clear night sky. Woke with frost on tent. Have come to this fantastic canyon. Village at bottom, at site of an abandoned meander of the Vis. Much of interest here.
Not to mention FANTASTIC vertiginous swoopy fast descent into bottom of canyon. Wheeee! Am enjoying cup of tea in cafe at bottom. Extra sugar; will need it to get back up out of here. Really breathtaking place. A grand day.
After descending to the small town of St Hyppolyte du Fort for the night, rode on the lovely back roads (those which weren't closed) eastward (via Lèdignan) through the countryside today, to the Pont du Gard, part of a Roman aqueduct built in 50 AD (!) to bring water all the way from Uzès to Nîmes (!!). Beautiful setting it is in too. Camping nearby on banks of Gard. Man at campsite reception: "Votre nom?" Me: "Moore." Man: "Comme Roger?"
Decided to have a rest day at the Pont. Lunch and book in shade by river. It's a popular tourist spot.
Yesterday I looked east across the plains of the Rhône, saw Ventoux standing like the Lonely Mountain and felt it call. Stayed at Bédouin last night and again tonight (alt. 309m, camping municipal "La Pinède"). A great experience to ride to the top, the road still covered with last year's Tour de France graffiti. 3 hours to get up. Two thirds of the climb you wind up through old woods, and then it opens out onto a final exposed section, still with snow. A super 22km descent (back the same way since the other side was closed) & a new top speed 66.9km/h on the speedo. Just had a beer in the town and now to bed.
Have arrived in Valence where Matthew lives so it's misson objective #1 complete! Matt took his bike out on the train to Crest yesterday and we met there and rode into Valence together. Friday night I had stayed at "Rhodia Plage" camping near Montélimar.
Now have access to internet properly so can post the following excellent link
:
"Dear all! For my own amusement I'm keeping a google map up to date on Nick's whereabouts based on his blog entries. As I know some of you are map freaks like me, I thought you might like the link to it! :-)"
View Map
Thanks, Rich!
Will add a few more things later, we are just popping out for a walk and to the laundry.
Biked out to the shops this morning and there was a pang! noise and suddenly the back wheel was wobbly. Closer inspection revealed two spokes had given up the ghost. I'm not carrying any spare spokes nor skilled in wheel-building, so happily this happened while here and a bike shop is nearby. It's due to be collected "neuf heures, demain" so should be back on the road before long.
Meanwhile been having a pleasant time in Valence. The weather is staying dry and seems to have got very hot. It might not last the week though, as it looks like there's rain on the way.
Haven't departed yet but though I would add a little about this place called La Garde Adhémar which was a particularly nice the other day. It is a little walled cluster of medieval buildings on a hill. This in itself not uncommon in France really, but this one was particularly lovely and a soothing balm against the noise of the Rhône valley (which is basically a conduit of main roads, an autoroute, TGV line, power stations) above which it is set; above and apart. There is quiet old simple church, whose door opens out onto the noise of the valley and so to enter you must symbolically turn your back to it, have a quiet moment, then turn back around to face the modern world again. There is also a herb garden on a terrace beneath a high wall (http://www.panoramio.com/photo/11916630). Overall, well worth a stop (and worth pushing up the steep windy lane that goes up to it) if you are passing.
Technically have not been staying in Valence but in Bourg. It's a bit like the difference between Hinckley and Burbage. Matthew's flat is in the picture behind the sign. Bike is fixed (hurrah!), and now departing once more.
This morning at edge of Vercor area at Pont-en-Royans. Camping municipal "Les Seraines" on grassy banks of a quiet patch of water, home to many ducks. Just brewing a cup of Earl Grey.
Had intended to continue along gorge to Villard-de-Lans but came to another (inconvenient, yet scenic) ROUTE BARRÉE at the Pont de la Goule Noire (at 700m). Déviation signs led instead over 1350m pass. Made a start at it, but on passing by woods above St-Julien-en-Vercors decided to spend the night here and save the rest of the climb for the morning. Sun just going down. Birds tweeting etc. Hot chocolate on.
It's all gone a bit alpine. Made it over the Col d'Herbouilly (a cross country skiing area in winter) to Villard-de-Lans, then a nice big drop to Grenoble. Fab views. The descent to the city felt like being blasted by a hair dryer, the air was so hot down there. Sweated along busy roads north and escaped to countryside again. At Charavines (camping Les Platanes) on the Lac de Paladru, which reminds me of Coniston.
Here is the Lac itself, lying in what are officially the foothills of the Alps, as a sign says. I prefer foothills, in the main. You can bed sure of being over one in half am hour rather than half a day, and they lend a pleasing flow to things. Second pic is gendarmes at abandoned overturned car. Lady in boulangerie: vous êtes de quel pays? Me: angleterre. Lady: vous avez traversé la Manche à vélo?
A nice country ride which finished up at small a place called Priay, camping "L'Escapade"; cheapest one yet at €4.50. This area feels quite English really: rolling green fields with crops, cows and horses, no vineyards to be seen.
Now in Burgundy. At Cormatin, camping "Le Hameau de Champs".
Despite weather was a good day. Final 30km or so from
Mâcon was all on a smooth Tarmac path, a disused railway. It passed through a very long, very empty tunnel (Tunnel du Bois Clair). Half way along, the lights were out; pitch black for 500m or so. Head torch went on.
All the shops were shut today. For May 1, I think. Also, children selling small bunches of white flowers in every town.
Stayed at Autun -twinned with Stevenage- and Avallon (campings municipal both). Weather been pretty poor, some rain but v. cold mainly. Making good propress towards Paris however. Saying that, today a strong wind from the north is making things difficult.
Today has been one long spinning session, pedalling into a cruel, maddening, incessant wind. Made it to Pont-sur-Yonne, having started out from Toucy. I met a Dutchman cycling the other way; he said he was going to Barcelona.
Awoke to a fine day and the thought that it was a month since the departure from Burbage. Discovered that a bird had shat on my towel. Saw my first "Paris" sign and my first genuine beret-wearing Frenchman. A good afternoon ride through the forest around Fontainebleau, then rendez-vous with Rich who took train out to join in camping at Melun, next to Seine.
The day travelling into Paris featured mainly trying to avoid the main roads and traffic and so getting into awkward navigation through built up areas. Every obvious road on my map was a big main road or motorway. It was great to arrive into the centre of the city where everything is very bike friendly, there are lots of cycle lanes and a relaxed attitude between cars and bikes, so I had a pootle round the sights before parking the bike up. Have been enjoying seeing friends and seeing Paris and will be continuing the journey tomorrow if all goes to plan.
Departed west via Versailles, and the traffic was easy to avoid going this way. Didn't go in any of the houses but there's loads to explore in the vast, bike-accessible grounds. Rode round the Grand Canal which is a large cross-shaped pond. Camping at a little place called Canada.
Followed Seine west to lush countryside and Giverny where Monet's garden is still maintained stunningly beautifully. Many visitors especially Japanese. Includes water garden with the famous lily pond. Camping now by river under ruins of castle on cliff at Les Andelys (Les Trois Rois). Sun came out this evening and it seems to be warming up a bit. Has been very cold for May, all jumpers and gloves. Been glad of my toasty Rab goose down sleeping bag.
Views from ancient hill fort at La Ferte St-Samson. A new record bargain camping at Forges-les-Eaux just €3.95 and not bad either.
The campsite is Mareuil-Caubert just below Abbeville. It is next to a field in which lives this family of miniature horses. Will ride to the sea today. Ferry in 2 days.
Having stayed at 27 different campsites of varying styles and standards on this trip, I have noticed a distinct trend. If the facilities are modern, immaculate and enticing, the showers are likely to be lukewarm and disappointing. However, if the shower block is an unappealing, draughty, 1950s tin shack, you will often-as-not experience a luxuriant, steaming torrent, heated by the fires of Hades. La Prairie at Le Crotoy happily falls into the latter category. Le Crotoy itself perches windswept among dunes and seems a town-that-time-forgot, more my kind of place at the moment than trendy St-Valery across the bay (previous photo). A steam train runs between the two. Lots of cycle paths here and also one all along the Somme from Abbeville.
Awoke to thick fog at Condette near Boulogne. 11am boat to Dover has departed on time. Sad to leave France behind. But, fish and chips and proper beer ahead!
France is good but the Kent downs on a sunny day take some beating. Today from Capel-le-Ferne (Little Satmar campsite) to Coldblow farm near Thurnham.
Kelvedon Hatch to St Neots today. Really good.
Me: Is this the way to Barwick? Man: Yes, are you going through the ford? Me: Er.. I don't know. Man: Only you can decide.
Google link
Here's the complete route from Rich. I will add a few more things and some final thoughts soon.
In summary, it was AMAZING! Of course there was the sheer privilege of passing through all those wonderful places, one after another. And also the little obscure towns, unexpected views, things by the roadside, the people and the little conversations and encounters. A bike lets you travel fast enough that you can be always somewhere new, yet keeps you slow enough to still be immersed in the surroundings.
Being under pedal power gives you and excellent excuse to just stop. The pleasure of sitting down to rest by the road in the sun at the edge of a field of corn, lying back in the long grass, looking up through the vegetation at a blue sky, shading your eyes with your arm, breathing in and knowing there is nothing else to be done except be here. There were moments like that. Sometimes though I got caught up in the notion of having-to-be-somewhere and forgot to take these stops. And when it rained I tended to just put my head down and keep going; but it never rained long.
Being on a long trip with only three fixed points in mind (Valence, Paris and home -- I made the rest of the route up as I went along) led to experiencing an intense sense of freedom of a degree that was new to me. The realisation that plans can be change in an instant and that each point of choice --go here or go there, stop here or move on-- was entirely mine to make and would affect everything. At first I struggled with my total liberty to choose, and it was on occasion a source of anxiety. Later I learned how make the same choices without so much effort, accessing my gut feeling more readily and relaxing upon realising that there could be no really wrong choice.
The simplicity of purpose of life on the road is what I would say I appreciated most. The rhythm of the day and being largely near nature. Not just the riding, but the camping, and the falling asleep "nicely tired" and the waking each morning with the birds, wondering what the day had in store (and either there are wood pigeons everywhere, or the same one followed me).
Most of all I would say that it would be wrong to think of the trip as something focused around bikes or cycling or a challenge to go a certain distance. It's not the cycling, but the travelling that is the essence of it. The bicycle becomes a part of you and is almost forgotten.
After day upon day of new, unfamiliar places it felt both invigorating and surreal to be suddenly looking at a map with my home town on it, and soon after that to be riding past the shops at the end of my road. And there was of course a great satisfaction in arriving safely at the end, and to finish up they day enjoying Burbage's fine beer gardens on a sunny saturday afternoon. Cheers!
Number of days from Barcelona to Burbage: 43
Number of days riding: 36
Number of nights camping: 34
Total distance: 2,510km
Average distance per day: 70km
Furthest: 103km
Average expenditure per day: £17.73
Average price of camp site: £7.72
It's all in the
spreadsheet!
(now 2011 - 1 year on)
A further selection from the "England" leg of the tour.
